A.F. Vandevorst spring—summer 1999.
For A.F. Vandevorst a garment that has been worn, has more ‘spirit’, more ‘soul’. An opinion they assimilated in their Spring-Summer 1999 collection by proposing clothes that look as if they have been slept in. The show took place in an old dormitory, and the clothes were presented by models sleeping in iron hospital beds. Lauded by the international press and fashion world, the duo received the Venus de la Mode award for most promising designer.
Hirofumi Kurino: Having seen a fashion show too many, I sometimes feel exhausted. It all seems a big waste to me then. I presume others must have the same feeling but still, they always seem ready for another show. I am fed up with this craze, this talk about fashion, the irresponsibility of journalists just chasing news. This ‘fashion for fashion’s sake’ is quite meaningless.
But there are moments of magic. Many people will agree with me when I mention the three A.F. Vandevorst shows, in 1998 and 1999. Knowing these were their first presentations, we were more than amazed; I felt healed, saved, rescued.
Emili Godes (1895-1970), Papallona, c. 1930
Welcome. As I am figuring how to go about freelance writing, I want to partially support myself with Patreon. What you will get from me are weekly essays on Black pop culture/Black female sexuality/Black radicalism, long form essays on any of the aforementioned subjects and the occasional poem. I want to use Patreon as a platform to launch my writing and eventually photography and ink drawing.
Nostalghia (Andrei Tarkovsky, 1983)
I fidanzati (Ermanno Olmi, 1963)
The Black Panther’s Free Breakfast for Children Program is probably their best-known initiative, the press finding an intriguing story juxtaposing the Panther’s tough-guy-in-leather-jacket image with the act of serving small children plates of hot food. Importantly, it was mostly women who led these survival programmes, and women made up a majority of the Panther membership. They served in leadership roles from ‘Officer of the Day’ (essentially the office – and people – manager for each branch), to organising the many details of a location’s breakfast programme to initiating and leading food justice, healthcare and housing programmes within neighbourhoods.
So why does the image of the Panthers as a masculinist and violent organisation persist? The answer lies in part with media distortion, influenced both by the sexism and racism that misrepresented the Panthers. There was also a misinformation campaign by the FBI, led by J Edgar Hoover, waged against the increasingly popular Panthers, which had an enduring impact on how people saw them.
zoleikha with her handmaidens after her second dream of yousef / yousef and zoleikha united after potiphar's death, 16th c., iran
Enrico Guazzoni The Martyrdom of St. Sebastian (Livio Pavanelli)
Film still from “Fabiola”, 1918
Audre Lorde, (1976), Between Ourselves, in The Black Unicorn, W. W. Norton & Company, New York, NY, 1978, pp. 112-114